The Creality Ender 3 is one of the most popular budget 3D printers on the market, offering excellent print quality and performance at an affordable price point. One of the key specifications of the Ender 3 is its build volume – the maximum size of objects and models that can be printed. Understanding the Ender 3’s build volume capabilities and limitations is crucial to getting the most out of your printer.
In this comprehensive guide, we’ll break down the official build volume specs of the standard Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro models. We’ll also discuss how to maximize the printer’s build area using various upgrades and modifications. Read on to learn how to unlock the full potential of your Ender 3’s build envelope!
Official Ender 3 Build Volume Specs
The build volume or print area refers to the maximum X, Y, and Z axis dimensions an object can be printed within. Here are the official build volumes for the most common Ender 3 models:
- Ender 3: 220 x 220 x 250mm (8.7 x 8.7 x 9.8 inches)
- Ender 3 Pro: 220 x 220 x 250mm (8.7 x 8.7 x 9.8 inches)
- Ender 3 V2: 220 x 220 x 250mm (8.7 x 8.7 x 9.8 inches)
As you can see, the build volumes are identical across the standard Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, and Ender 3 V2 variants. The numbers indicate that you can print objects up to 220mm wide, 220mm deep, and 250mm tall.
This build area is considerably larger than many other entry-level 3D printers in the Ender 3’s price range. For example, the Anycubic Mega Zero 2.0 has a build volume of 210 x 210 x 205mm, which is more limited on the Z axis height.
Maximizing the X and Y Axes
While 220 x 220mm provides a decent print area for small to medium sized objects, you may eventually wish to print larger items on your Ender 3. Thankfully, a number of simple upgrades can extend the max build volume on the X and Y axes. Here are some options:
Glass Bed Upgrade
One easy way to add printable space is to replace the standard Ender 3 build plate with a glass printing surface. The original build plate is limited to 220 x 220mm in size. However, typical borosilicate glass plates are available in larger 235 x 235mm and 250 x 250mm dimensions.
A glass bed offers excellent print adhesion when used with adhesion helpers like hairspray or glue stick. Just make sure to get “bundled” glass with machined edges to fit the Ender 3 bed mounts properly.
Aluminum Bed Extenders
For even more printable X and Y space, consider installing aluminum bed extenders. These accessories physically increase the overall bed size to around 300 x 300mm on the Ender 3. Brands like Gulfcoast Robotics make extenders that are easy to install and provide sturdy support for the larger glass surface.
Larger 300mm x 300mm print beds may require an upgraded power supply to handle the increased power draw from a bigger heating element. Make sure to check the amperage rating when sizing your power supply.
Alternative Firmwares
Flashing the Ender 3 with an alternative firmware like Marlin or Klipper also lets you leverage more build area. These firmware versions remove the 220mm software limit on the X and Y axes present in the stock Ender 3 firmware.
Just take care when printing near the edges of an extended bed, as mechanical endstops may need adjustment to prevent the print head from colliding with frame.
Maximizing the Z Axis Height
While 250mm provides decent Z height for smaller prints, you’ll quickly crave more clearance for larger prints. Here are some of the top options for increasing the maximum Z axis build height on your Ender 3:
Z Axis Rod Extenders
Adding extenders between the X gantry carriage and Z lead screws is a simple way to gain an extra 50-100mm of clearance. Brands like Gulfcoast Robotics make extensions that work with the Ender 3 Pro and V2 models. Make sure to recalibrate your Z offsets after installation.
Raised Print Bed Supports
Printing taller objects may also require physically raising the print bed to allow clearance beneath large prints. Products like the Creality CR-6 SE Bed Risers lift the bed 60mm higher to provide space for prints up to 300mm tall.
Dual Z Rod Upgrade
For maximum Z axis stability when printing at taller heights, consider adding a second Z rod and lead screw. This dual Z setup prevents sagging or gantry skew that can occur with a single lead screw at taller heights. Combine dual Z rods with rod extenders for the most build volume.
Maximizing Build Volume on the Ender 3
Here are some top tips for getting the absolute most out of the Ender 3’s build envelope using the upgrades mentioned above:
- Upgrade to a larger 240mm or 250mm glass print bed for more X and Y space.
- Use aluminum bed extenders to expand the bed to 300mm x 300mm.
- Adjust firmware settings or flash Marlin or Klipper firmware to remove 220mm software limits.
- Install Z axis rod extenders to boost height by 50-100mm.
- Add Creality CR-6 SE bed risers or make your own raises for more clearance.
- Upgrade to dual Z rods for rock solid stability when printing tall objects.
With the right combination of these mods, 300 x 300 x 400mm is possible on the Ender 3. That huge build volume rivals printers costing many times more!
Bed Leveling for Max Build Volume
Once you’ve upgraded your Ender 3 with a larger build area, proper bed leveling becomes even more crucial for print success. Here are some tips:
- Stick with manual leveling over auto bed leveling for best results with upgraded beds.
- Use a bed leveling test print like the 3D Builder grid to check leveling across all corners.
- Perform 2-3 bed leveling test prints at increasing heights to dial in leveling.
- Add a BL Touch or other probe to help compensate for minor inconsistencies.
- Use multiple lead screws or anti-sag bars on dual Z setups to prevent Z axis sag.
- Check for frame warping or wobble which can throw off leveling at taller heights.
Don’t forget to periodically re-level the bed as the glass or aluminum can settle over time. Taking the time to get the bed trammed perfectly will ensure your mega-sized prints stick properly across the entire build area.
Print Area Requirements
While a build volume over 300mm in all axes may seem huge, you do need appropriately sized models to take advantage of the full area. Here are some print volume requirements to keep in mind:
- Miniatures and desk toys generally need less than 150mm height and under 150x150mm on XY axes.
- Larger helmets, masks, and cosplay props may need up to 200x200x300mm.
- 1/6 scale busts and figures require around 180x180x280mm build size.
- Tall vases, planters, and plant pots could take 250-300mm of Z clearance.
- Life size helmet replicas may require nearly 300x300x300mm build volumes.
Consider scaling your objects down to 70-80% sizes if your model exceeds the max build envelope. Also, rotate tall thin objects diagonally to minimize the required height clearance.
Print Speed and Volume
To leverage the full area of extended Ender 3 beds, some adjustments to print speeds may be required:
- For the stock 220×220 bed, 60-80mm/s print speeds are typical.
- When printing near the edges of a 300mm bed, slow speeds to 40-50mm/s for best quality.
- Reduce speeds to 30-40mm/s for tall prints over 250mm to minimize wobble.
- Acceleration and jerk settings may also need turned down for reliable large prints.
Don’t be afraid to slow the Ender 3 down for big prints – the priority is getting a successful print rather than raw speed. Also minimize unnecessary travel moves and use larger nozzles like 0.6mm to reduce print times.
Slicer Settings
Take advantage of slicer settings like “Print Sequence” and “Object Arrangement” to optimize the spacing and position of prints to leverage all the build volume. Here are some tips:
- Arrange multiple prints sequentially to reduce travel moves.
- Position the tallest print closest to the center of the bed for stability.
- Use brims or rafts to provide a stable base for large prints near bed edges.
- Adjust nozzle starting heights (Z hop) to avoid collisions with existing prints.
With smart arranging and slicing techniques, you can make full use of every bit of the huge Ender 3 build volume.
Other Large Format Printers
While the Ender 3 build volume can be expanded significantly, there are limits to DIY modifications. For those needing even larger printing capabilities, dedicated large format printers are available:
- Creality CR-30 (300 x 300 x 400mm): Purpose built for big prints with dual Z axis rods and auto bed leveling. But more expensive than the Ender 3 upgrades.
- Creality CR-10 Series: Various CR-10 models with 300, 400, or 500mm build volumes on X and Y axes. Less DIY needed.
- Original Prusa i3 XL: Features a massive 400 x 400 x 400 mm build area perfect for cosplay armor and props.
So for truly gigantic printing needs, a large format printer like one of the above may be a better choice than maxing out a modified Ender 3.
Conclusion
Understanding and properly utilizing the full build volume of your Ender 3 unlocks this printer’s potential for printing medium to large-sized objects. With simple upgrades like extended print beds, taller Z axis rods, and alternative firmware, 300 x 300 x 400mm is achievable. Just take care with bed leveling, print speeds, and slicer settings.
Hopefully this guide has provided lots of useful tips for maximizing your Ender 3 print area. Just remember to size your models appropriately and scale down when needed. With the right techniques, even an affordable Ender 3 can rival the print size of industrial printers costing thousands more!
